Last night I bought a Streamlight Propolymer 4AA at a Turner's store here in S. Calif. It's a olive drab light with the new style clickie tail switch. I put the 4 AA Energizers in it that came with it and I was very impressed with the light it put out. I decided to go for a walk last night and had the light on for about 30 minutes. After 10 - 15 minutes the bezel of the light started getting warm but not too hot to touch. When I got home I removed the bezel and noticed the LED module had a hot electronics type smell coming from it and the area where the white plastic base meets the reflector felt tacky. Then I looked at the reflector and the reflective plating (specifically the area between the LEDSs and the center recessed portion)had started to distort. Looking into the module from what I can see there is no resistor under the board as some have reported. There is a resistor between each LED. The first three color bands on it are red, red and black. If I remember correctly that equals a 22 OHM resistor? Is this the most current version of this light or is it one of the earlier modules? I've never had to warranty anything with Streamlight. Do they make you mail the light into them or will the send replacement parts to you? If I have to ship it to them I may as well return the light to the store where I bought it since the shipping costs to Streamlight would really add to the cost of my new light. Is it unreasonable to expect this light to be able to run for 30 minutes to 1 hour at a time? If so then it won't work for my needs as a light to walk with. John
got a new SL ProPoly 4AA , it runs too hot!
- Thread starter pilot4x4
- Start date
Help Support Candle Power Flashlight Forum
js
Flashlight Enthusiast
pilot4x4,
I sympathize completely. I also need a light that can run up to an hour constant on, but I've noticed that many people don't share this need. One of my first posts here (to my shame) was a post attacking the SF L4 because I had misunderstood a thread "L4 liquid cooling?" where the owner tried to hold onto the HEAD of the light for a full battery discharge and couldn't do it (as opposed to holding onto the body, which CAN be done). It bothers me when light designers do not pay heed to thermal issues. They are an important part of light design, especially for LED lights. Now the SF L4 CAN be run constant on for as long as you want, without hurting the light, and people here absolutely LOVE it, and that's great, and perhaps someday I'll own one too. (I have to pick and choose my battles with my wife, and I want an Arc LS4 bad, so the L4 will have to wait)
But if your SL ProPoly 4AA runs too hot and it was damaged from normal use, I would return it to the store where you bought it and demand your money back in no uncertain terms (but be civil, of course). YOU should not have to deal with shipping and returning it to SL! That's one of the reasons to give your patronage to a store vs. ordering something on-line. Take advantage of that. Have the store deal with the warranty issues. Get your money back. If a light can't be run constant on, then IT SHOULD SAY SO IN BIG LETTERS on the package.
Just my $.02, as they say. Good Luck!
I sympathize completely. I also need a light that can run up to an hour constant on, but I've noticed that many people don't share this need. One of my first posts here (to my shame) was a post attacking the SF L4 because I had misunderstood a thread "L4 liquid cooling?" where the owner tried to hold onto the HEAD of the light for a full battery discharge and couldn't do it (as opposed to holding onto the body, which CAN be done). It bothers me when light designers do not pay heed to thermal issues. They are an important part of light design, especially for LED lights. Now the SF L4 CAN be run constant on for as long as you want, without hurting the light, and people here absolutely LOVE it, and that's great, and perhaps someday I'll own one too. (I have to pick and choose my battles with my wife, and I want an Arc LS4 bad, so the L4 will have to wait)
But if your SL ProPoly 4AA runs too hot and it was damaged from normal use, I would return it to the store where you bought it and demand your money back in no uncertain terms (but be civil, of course). YOU should not have to deal with shipping and returning it to SL! That's one of the reasons to give your patronage to a store vs. ordering something on-line. Take advantage of that. Have the store deal with the warranty issues. Get your money back. If a light can't be run constant on, then IT SHOULD SAY SO IN BIG LETTERS on the package.
Just my $.02, as they say. Good Luck!
Tomas
Banned
I agree with both of you that a "good" light should be able to operate in any normal environment. That even includes desert temperatures running continuously 'til the batteries are dead.
If they can't do that, or aren't designed/built to be able to do that, it should say so plainly and clearly on the outside of the packaging so you know before you make the decision to buy.
For a buck ninety-nine I can buy a waterproof Garrity 2D at Sears that will work without a problem as described in the first paragraph. A more expensive "premium" light should be able to meet those requirements and more ...
If a light is a "click-on, say 'Wow!', click off" performer, it should be sold as a toy or for specific, clearly stated purposes. If it can't do it's job in normal use without damage, the light is either poorly designed and built or being sold without disclosure of it's limitations.
Take it back to the dealer. That's one reason one buys a product locally at other than the lowest discount price.
It may sound like I'm being too hard to some. While that may be true, *I* don't think so. "Normal use" for a flashlight includes taking a walk and running it 'til the batteries are dead unless the manufacturer clearly states limitations that preclude that sort of action from being "normal use" on the packaging.
Uh, I musta missed a tag at the start, here. </RANT> /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
If they can't do that, or aren't designed/built to be able to do that, it should say so plainly and clearly on the outside of the packaging so you know before you make the decision to buy.
For a buck ninety-nine I can buy a waterproof Garrity 2D at Sears that will work without a problem as described in the first paragraph. A more expensive "premium" light should be able to meet those requirements and more ...
If a light is a "click-on, say 'Wow!', click off" performer, it should be sold as a toy or for specific, clearly stated purposes. If it can't do it's job in normal use without damage, the light is either poorly designed and built or being sold without disclosure of it's limitations.
Take it back to the dealer. That's one reason one buys a product locally at other than the lowest discount price.
It may sound like I'm being too hard to some. While that may be true, *I* don't think so. "Normal use" for a flashlight includes taking a walk and running it 'til the batteries are dead unless the manufacturer clearly states limitations that preclude that sort of action from being "normal use" on the packaging.
Uh, I musta missed a tag at the start, here. </RANT> /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
js
Flashlight Enthusiast
Tomas,
I'm glad someone agrees with me on this. My brother and I have argued about it for some time. He's of the "Well, flashlights are almost always just used intermittently" and will defend any GEE WIZ over-powered, poorly heat-sinked, poorly designed light tooth and nail.
I'm glad someone agrees with me on this. My brother and I have argued about it for some time. He's of the "Well, flashlights are almost always just used intermittently" and will defend any GEE WIZ over-powered, poorly heat-sinked, poorly designed light tooth and nail.
Tomas
Banned
Well, js, back when I was working on aircraft on the tarmac in Texas and/or Southeast Asia, I would often have a flashlight on for hours at a time in ridiculous temperatures. 120-130 degrees F local environmental temps were not unheard of.
That was considered "normal" use - the light stayed on until the job was done in whatever environment the person needing the light was in.
Even working on a car at the side of the road far from civilization in Arizona took a long "on" time in hellish temperatures.
Uses like these are something that just have to be expected. They are "possible normal uses." They are not something one wants their expensive premium light to just melt down doing.
If the premium light is the one on hand, it should do the job asked of it unless the manufacturer has said it cannot right on the package.
Product integrity. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
That was considered "normal" use - the light stayed on until the job was done in whatever environment the person needing the light was in.
Even working on a car at the side of the road far from civilization in Arizona took a long "on" time in hellish temperatures.
Uses like these are something that just have to be expected. They are "possible normal uses." They are not something one wants their expensive premium light to just melt down doing.
If the premium light is the one on hand, it should do the job asked of it unless the manufacturer has said it cannot right on the package.
Product integrity. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
I think you might have a bad one. I got a SL 4AA led myself last night and ran it for 2 hours straight with no problems, ran it for another hour very early this morning. The bezel gets hot after more than 30 minutes, but the body does not, so its a non-issue with me.
Hang on...when you say distortion, do you mean discoloration, like the refelctive surface (except for the outermost ring) looks fogged up??
Hang on...when you say distortion, do you mean discoloration, like the refelctive surface (except for the outermost ring) looks fogged up??
Lagged2Death
Newly Enlightened
Uh oh. I just got one of these in the mail from BrightGuy today. After running it for about 10 minutes (on the included, unused Energizer alkalines), I did notice the rubber bezel was warm, but no problems so far.
This is the first LED light I've used that can really give incandescents a run for their money (I haven't got any Luxeon lights - yet). It's really astonishingly bright for a handful of Nichas and puny AA batteries. I picked it based largely on Quickbeam's favorable review, and even so, it surpassed all my expectations of sturdiness, brightness, and compactness. I like it a lot - I sure hope it doesn't melt!
This is the first LED light I've used that can really give incandescents a run for their money (I haven't got any Luxeon lights - yet). It's really astonishingly bright for a handful of Nichas and puny AA batteries. I picked it based largely on Quickbeam's favorable review, and even so, it surpassed all my expectations of sturdiness, brightness, and compactness. I like it a lot - I sure hope it doesn't melt!
Hmmm... I have never had any trouble with my Streamlight 4AA. While the head does get hot after about 25 minutes of use, mine has never had any discoloration or deformity due to heat. The body of the light gets warm, but not uncomfortable to hold, so the hot head has never been an issue with me. I have used it on camping trips for up to about 6 hours at a time with no problems. I would take it back to the dealer you got it from. It sounds like you got a bad unit.
The body of my light doesn't get hot, just the bezel and internal components. I did a little testing on the light today. I did a little testing on the light today, I figured I may as well since there's nothing to lose now. I put some Rayovac 1300 mah NIMH AAs in it that I had here to see how it ran with those. It doesn't get hot as quickly but it still gets too warm. I ran it for one hour. I started to smell the same smell I smelled last time so I shut the light off and again removed the bezel to check the unit. I again felt a tacky type feel around the outside of module. It appears that they use some type of adhesive around the area where the reflector mounts to the plastic piece that holds the battery contacts. This adhesive was melting and that's probably is or is at least contributing to the bad smell coming from the module. Someone asked about the damage to the reflector. The reflective plating is slightly deformed in the areas directly between the LEDs and in the exact center of the reflector. It appears that the plating may have been starting to lift off of the reflector. I did not notice any further damage to that area when running the NIMHs, the light didn't get quite as hot with them but it still got very warm. When I removed the NIMH's after an hour of running they were fairly warm. Is that normal? I may contact Streamlight and see if they will send a replacment LED module rather than taking it back to the store since it's 80 miles of driving to get there and back. Has anyone ever removed the LED module from there light after running it for say 30 minutes or more and noticed a strong odor coming from it? John
shankus
Flashlight Enthusiast
I have one with the same 22 ohm resistors. I have run it for an hour before. The head on mine gets warm, not hot.
The epoxy does not get tacky, and I notice no smell. My reflector shows no damage.
I think you just got a questionable unit. Streamlight sports a lifetime warranty, but I'm with the others, take it back to where you got it. If they won't replace it, part ways with the retailer forever, and send it to Streamlight.
I'll bet that they take care of you.
As far as normal operation, I'm with the others, as well. A flashlight should run out a set of cells, with no problems. I expect it. If it won't do that, I want to see it in writing before I purchase it, which pretty much leaves it to them to put it on the packaging.
Your brother is mistaken on the issue. Think of an analogy in a situation like this.
If it is reasonble for a light to not be able to run out a set of cells, wouldn't it also be reasonable for a car to not be able to run out a tank of gas?
Or, is a cordless drill that must be rested at intervals to prevent it from melting, reasonable?
The epoxy does not get tacky, and I notice no smell. My reflector shows no damage.
I think you just got a questionable unit. Streamlight sports a lifetime warranty, but I'm with the others, take it back to where you got it. If they won't replace it, part ways with the retailer forever, and send it to Streamlight.
I'll bet that they take care of you.
As far as normal operation, I'm with the others, as well. A flashlight should run out a set of cells, with no problems. I expect it. If it won't do that, I want to see it in writing before I purchase it, which pretty much leaves it to them to put it on the packaging.
Your brother is mistaken on the issue. Think of an analogy in a situation like this.
If it is reasonble for a light to not be able to run out a set of cells, wouldn't it also be reasonable for a car to not be able to run out a tank of gas?
Or, is a cordless drill that must be rested at intervals to prevent it from melting, reasonable?
steve_vance
Enlightened
I have a number of SL ProPoly 4AA, and never experienced this.Yours is defective.
I would exchange it for another, since it's a great light and you just gor a bad one, IMHO
I would exchange it for another, since it's a great light and you just gor a bad one, IMHO
I have got on ewith one big resistor at the bottom of the module and some tiny resitors inside, and it does get quite hot, too. It never melted, but I stopped usage before that point. I can't help but I do not trust this light any more after repeated reported problems with heat ...
bernhard
bernhard
shankus
Flashlight Enthusiast
[ QUOTE ]
kiessling said:
I have got on ewith one big resistor at the bottom of the module and some tiny resitors inside, and it does get quite hot, too. It never melted, but I stopped usage before that point. I can't help but I do not trust this light any more after repeated reported problems with heat ...
bernhard
[/ QUOTE ]
I agree with Steve, this is a great light, and if you have problems, Streamlight should take care of you. Whip them out an email...
kiessling said:
I have got on ewith one big resistor at the bottom of the module and some tiny resitors inside, and it does get quite hot, too. It never melted, but I stopped usage before that point. I can't help but I do not trust this light any more after repeated reported problems with heat ...
bernhard
[/ QUOTE ]
I agree with Steve, this is a great light, and if you have problems, Streamlight should take care of you. Whip them out an email...
shrap
Enlightened
It's kind of ironic for these high-performance lights -
If the body is too hot after extended runtime, the light is dissipating heat well, but people can't hold on to the light.
If the body stays cool after extended runtime, the light isn't getting rid of heat well, and the internals get subjected to intense heat.
There's always a tradeoff.
If the body is too hot after extended runtime, the light is dissipating heat well, but people can't hold on to the light.
If the body stays cool after extended runtime, the light isn't getting rid of heat well, and the internals get subjected to intense heat.
There's always a tradeoff.
JS-
I agree with your brother.
I think of a flashlight as a short term solution. Flashlights are a compromise. I don't expect them to do the job of a lantern or a spotlight.
"I" buy flashlights small easy to carry and stick in your pocket. Flashlights that light up an area with a bright light for 15-20 mins maximum...until the guy with the Lantern comes along. Lanterns are great for providing hours of general flood type light. As such I have no problems with them being big bulky and standing upright on a table. Almost the same for a spotlight, larger, bulkier tremendous throw with brilliant light and last for an hour or more.
Three different lights three different purposes. I think a lot of people learned this just late last week.
GregR
P.S. Having said all that. I think pilot4x4 should return the Light. It sounds like you could conceivibly have a safety issue.
I agree with your brother.
I think of a flashlight as a short term solution. Flashlights are a compromise. I don't expect them to do the job of a lantern or a spotlight.
"I" buy flashlights small easy to carry and stick in your pocket. Flashlights that light up an area with a bright light for 15-20 mins maximum...until the guy with the Lantern comes along. Lanterns are great for providing hours of general flood type light. As such I have no problems with them being big bulky and standing upright on a table. Almost the same for a spotlight, larger, bulkier tremendous throw with brilliant light and last for an hour or more.
Three different lights three different purposes. I think a lot of people learned this just late last week.
GregR
P.S. Having said all that. I think pilot4x4 should return the Light. It sounds like you could conceivibly have a safety issue.
asdalton
Flashlight Enthusiast
[ QUOTE ]
shrap said:
If the body is too hot after extended runtime, the light is dissipating heat well, but people can't hold on to the light.
If the body stays cool after extended runtime, the light isn't getting rid of heat well, and the internals get subjected to intense heat.
[/ QUOTE ]
The heat has to get out eventually, so a poorly heatsinked light is not going to be cooler (surface temperature at steady state) than a well heatsinked one. The only difference is that a metal body will conduct heat into your hand better than a plastic body.
shrap said:
If the body is too hot after extended runtime, the light is dissipating heat well, but people can't hold on to the light.
If the body stays cool after extended runtime, the light isn't getting rid of heat well, and the internals get subjected to intense heat.
[/ QUOTE ]
The heat has to get out eventually, so a poorly heatsinked light is not going to be cooler (surface temperature at steady state) than a well heatsinked one. The only difference is that a metal body will conduct heat into your hand better than a plastic body.
shrap
Enlightened
[ QUOTE ]
asdalton said:
The heat has to get out eventually, so a poorly heatsinked light is not going to be cooler (surface temperature at steady state) than a well heatsinked one. The only difference is that a metal body will conduct heat into your hand better than a plastic body.
[/ QUOTE ]
Which we both can agree good heatsinking is a good thing for most flashlights, right? (good thing = good for flashlight bulbs/LEDs/electronics, not your hand)
asdalton said:
The heat has to get out eventually, so a poorly heatsinked light is not going to be cooler (surface temperature at steady state) than a well heatsinked one. The only difference is that a metal body will conduct heat into your hand better than a plastic body.
[/ QUOTE ]
Which we both can agree good heatsinking is a good thing for most flashlights, right? (good thing = good for flashlight bulbs/LEDs/electronics, not your hand)
Hello!
I got a replacement from steamlight but the heat issue is still not solved.
Having tried Alkaline and NiMH batteries, I would say this light 'can' run for a long time while you have to expect a hot LED module and distorted surface on the plastic reflector and some smell from the hot plastic.
I wonder whether you have tried to run the light with fresh alkaline/NiMH battery for over 20 minutes because for both my two 4AALED with new resistor they will still become hot.
That's what I've experienced after many calls to Streamlight.
(*post edited for poor grammar*)
I got a replacement from steamlight but the heat issue is still not solved.
Having tried Alkaline and NiMH batteries, I would say this light 'can' run for a long time while you have to expect a hot LED module and distorted surface on the plastic reflector and some smell from the hot plastic.
I wonder whether you have tried to run the light with fresh alkaline/NiMH battery for over 20 minutes because for both my two 4AALED with new resistor they will still become hot.
That's what I've experienced after many calls to Streamlight.
(*post edited for poor grammar*)
Quickbeam
Flashlight Enthusiast
If there is a problem with the light, remember Streamlight has a lifetime warranty. They should send you a new one if it's being damaged by the heat created by the current draw.
