Don is correct.
All the setup functionality (and this includes the three presets that you can use to conveniently store different configurations) is only active when the jumper pads on the PCB are closed. So if you intend to use the setup permanently, a solder bridge will work reliably.
Once unlocked with the hardware jumper, you have to execute this sequence of slower and faster On-Off cycles to enter the setup. From my own experience, this sequence is long and specific enough that you rarely get into the setup inadvertently.
The ability to store entire configurations in a preset lets you easily have totally different driver configurations that you can load in a few seconds. So after you have saved such a configuration in a preset you can turn the light from the stock configuration into one that for example has 2 output levels, no memory (always coming on with the first output level), and a high output of 2000 mA - whenever you need it and really quickly.
The low battery output reduction does indeed turn down the output in several steps before the cut-off voltage would be reached where it turns off the output completely. If you look at the lumens output graph from Dons' introduction to the Aqua lights, you see those reduction steps. The output reduction steps correspond to the voltage of the battery, i. e. the first reduction step happens at a certain voltage, the next one after another drop in the cell voltage. This means that the first drop gives you a low battery warning well before it would be totally discharged. On the lowest output level you would still have an hour runtime easily with an 18650 cell at that point.
I'm grateful for the positive comments about the drivers features and i hope that it will prove to be as good as you imagine once you are able to actually use it.
Please keep the feedback coming, any suggestions are welcome
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