Flashanator
Flashlight Enthusiast
that beast looks amazing, No really. AMAZING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
1000W PAR64 HID 63000 lumens
- Thread starter ez78
- Start date
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Davekan
Newly Enlightened
Well I have now ordered a 3000 watt Short arc power supply. It should be here in about 10 days. I have also orderd a 700 watt ballast for
hid bulbs. Because they come from the same place, I also threw in
1200 watt and 400 watt ballast. I will get both hot and cold igniters
with those also.
When all this crap gets here I will tell all were this stuff can be had.
Dave
Well I have had my ballasts, and bulbs for some time now, but I have
not been doing any testing, because it is almost impossable to get
lamp base sockets.
I have 1 GY 9.5 coming in next week, and will spark up 700 watt HMI
next week.
Dave
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Good to hear your plans are progressing. I think I have found those GY/GX 9.5 bases from some online stage/entertainment lightning stores but maybe they were all here in Europe. I dont have the links now. Remember to protect your eyes against the UV radiation and possible bulb shattering when testing the lamp.
I am having my lamp tested today to see what wavelenghts it outputs, I have a feeling it might be giving some UV too. I have couple of times noticed some mild eye irritation after having fun with the light. Better find out what is going on.
I think I have found those GY/GX 9.5 bases from some online stage/entertainment lightning stores but maybe they were all here in Europe. I dont have the links now. Remember to protect your eyes against the UV radiation and possible bulb shattering when testing the lamp.I am having my lamp tested today to see what wavelenghts it outputs, I have a feeling it might be giving some UV too. I have couple of times noticed some mild eye irritation after having fun with the light. Better find out what is going on.
Davekan
Newly Enlightened
Hello ez78
I was under the impression that glass will attenuate uv over 90%.
I do know that you should not stare directly into the beam for more
than a few minutes.
Dave
I was under the impression that glass will attenuate uv over 90%.
I do know that you should not stare directly into the beam for more
than a few minutes.
Dave
IgNITEor
Newly Enlightened
Davekan, I'm looking around this thread to find what reflector you're gonna use for your 700 Watt HMI.
I contacted Opti-Forms awhile ago about availability of a slightly larger ($$$) version of yours for a 1800 Watt HTI and Osram's nice 7 mm gap, and they kindly asked for electrode lumen density and photometric's.
Whoa! Ra knows about this stuff.
What did you offer Opti-Forms for specs when you ordered your 16"
blinding work-of-art?
This group offers a nice selection of ballasts and ignitors and respond well to emails:
http://www.dealec.co.uk/acatalog/erc_special_application_ballasts.html
They have limited gear in 120 Volt.
Those hot re-strike ignitors are plenty spendy but very convenient.
Your Thor 400 W PAR is totally killer-photon-danger!!
I contacted Opti-Forms awhile ago about availability of a slightly larger ($$$) version of yours for a 1800 Watt HTI and Osram's nice 7 mm gap, and they kindly asked for electrode lumen density and photometric's.
Whoa! Ra knows about this stuff.
What did you offer Opti-Forms for specs when you ordered your 16"
blinding work-of-art?
This group offers a nice selection of ballasts and ignitors and respond well to emails:
http://www.dealec.co.uk/acatalog/erc_special_application_ballasts.html
They have limited gear in 120 Volt.
Those hot re-strike ignitors are plenty spendy but very convenient.
Your Thor 400 W PAR is totally killer-photon-danger!!
Davekan
Newly Enlightened
Hello IgNITEor
I also have been thinking of possibly going larger, 2500-4000 watt HMI
in 762mm rhodium reflector. The only reason for the first tests, to be done
with bi-pin bulbs is time. I will eventually go with double ended bulbs, with
electric focus.
I think electrode luman density is going to be high, given 7mm gap with
165000 lumans. That information is available but not necessary for rhodium reflector selection. I'm not sure why they would ask that, unless
the distribution of the light in the gap is not even, it may allow you to go to a smaller reflector.
Ra does know more about this, than just about anybody. I think he has a Ph.D in this stuff.
For specs I told Opti-Forms 1200 watt NMI with 5mm gap, and 16" diameter. Thats all.
I will be in Toledo for the next week, and can not do any testing till next
week.
Dave
I also have been thinking of possibly going larger, 2500-4000 watt HMI
in 762mm rhodium reflector. The only reason for the first tests, to be done
with bi-pin bulbs is time. I will eventually go with double ended bulbs, with
electric focus.
I think electrode luman density is going to be high, given 7mm gap with
165000 lumans. That information is available but not necessary for rhodium reflector selection. I'm not sure why they would ask that, unless
the distribution of the light in the gap is not even, it may allow you to go to a smaller reflector.
Ra does know more about this, than just about anybody. I think he has a Ph.D in this stuff.
For specs I told Opti-Forms 1200 watt NMI with 5mm gap, and 16" diameter. Thats all.
I will be in Toledo for the next week, and can not do any testing till next
week.
Dave
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Dave, as I understand it normal glass blocks 90% of the radiation that is below 300nm wavelenght. But 300-400nm is still UV. Does the HMI bulb have an outer glass shell, or is it naked like Maxabeam bulb? The arc chamber in these bulbs is quartz glass I think, that will not filter UV.
I noticed some minor eye symptoms couple hours after I had been walking around with the light when there was snow on the ground. So propably the snow was reflecting too much 'something' back at me. Could also be that the visible light intensity itself was little too much. Yeah looking into the beam would be a bad mistake. I have held my hand in the beam and it does not leave any marks, although the heat is pretty bad, but no sunburns or anything.
I noticed some minor eye symptoms couple hours after I had been walking around with the light when there was snow on the ground. So propably the snow was reflecting too much 'something' back at me. Could also be that the visible light intensity itself was little too much. Yeah looking into the beam would be a bad mistake. I have held my hand in the beam and it does not leave any marks, although the heat is pretty bad, but no sunburns or anything.
I'm having fun watching this unfold, guys. Keep it up! I'm anxious to see final products - bring them on!
Davekan
Newly Enlightened
Dave, as I understand it normal glass blocks 90% of the radiation that is below 300nm wavelenght. But 300-400nm is still UV. Does the HMI bulb have an outer glass shell, or is it naked like Maxabeam bulb? The arc chamber in these bulbs is quartz glass I think, that will not filter UV.
I noticed some minor eye symptoms couple hours after I had been walking around with the light when there was snow on the ground. So propably the snow was reflecting too much 'something' back at me. Could also be that the visible light intensity itself was little too much. Yeah looking into the beam would be a bad mistake. I have held my hand in the beam and it does not leave any marks, although the heat is pretty bad, but no sunburns or anything.
Hello ez78
The bulb I will use first is Made by GE, CSR 700/SA CODE 15380.
Yes it is of the naked varity. I will have glass window infront of reflector,
and will be getting it coated to increase the output in the visual range.
I think it may not be usefull to our health to use these lamps at short range. I'm very interested in the spectral output of your lamp.
I hope it was just the visible light intensity, off the snow, that caused
some eye issues. I do now that UV-C is the worst for the eyes, and skin.
Dave
Dave, the spectrum can now be found in the 400W HID Thor thread. It shows that glass is filtering out the under 300nm UV-C area nicely. Don't know exactly what kind of glass this is.
The sensitivity of the meter was maybe set little too low in the scan, everything is pretty close to the base. About the eye irritation, atleast it went away in 24 hours or so and nothing wrong after that. It just felt like little dry eyes.
The sensitivity of the meter was maybe set little too low in the scan, everything is pretty close to the base. About the eye irritation, atleast it went away in 24 hours or so and nothing wrong after that. It just felt like little dry eyes.
Holzleim
Newly Enlightened
Hi All,
I read this thread and some other about very high power (>=400W) portable HID lights.
Beside the problems concerning the reflector, the UV radiation, cooling, ....
I understood that one big task is the chain of battery -> ballast -> bulb, where you have to place many cells in series, or battery -> (inverter) -> ballast -> bulb, where you need the additional space (and weight) for the inverter, along with the additional losses of the inverter.
So my question is:
Why not self-make a ballast that consists of current and voltage controlled dc-dc converter circuitry that is optimized for a certain input voltage of a certain bulb.
So you might take a 2p4s (2parallel, 4series) LiPo Pack of 5Ah 30C cells as input, giving 5Ah * 3,7V * 8 = 148Wh of energy. Driving a 1kW bulb you would have to take less than 10C from the cells, giving a runtime of ~6min.
If you will spend more money, just put more cells in parallel.....
Such a battery pack is rather easy to balance and charge.
If the bulb needs rather high voltages for operation, I would use a transformer based dc-dc circuitry, that surely must be capable of handling the startup-current of the bulb.
And at this point I lack some theory and exact datasheets about the voltage/current needed for these high-power bulbs over the whole operation cycle of startup, stabilized run, dimming, ....
Does anyone know here some reliable data, that I would be need to design a dc-dc customized ballast?
Greets,
Holzleim
I read this thread and some other about very high power (>=400W) portable HID lights.
Beside the problems concerning the reflector, the UV radiation, cooling, ....
I understood that one big task is the chain of battery -> ballast -> bulb, where you have to place many cells in series, or battery -> (inverter) -> ballast -> bulb, where you need the additional space (and weight) for the inverter, along with the additional losses of the inverter.
So my question is:
Why not self-make a ballast that consists of current and voltage controlled dc-dc converter circuitry that is optimized for a certain input voltage of a certain bulb.
So you might take a 2p4s (2parallel, 4series) LiPo Pack of 5Ah 30C cells as input, giving 5Ah * 3,7V * 8 = 148Wh of energy. Driving a 1kW bulb you would have to take less than 10C from the cells, giving a runtime of ~6min.
If you will spend more money, just put more cells in parallel.....
Such a battery pack is rather easy to balance and charge.
If the bulb needs rather high voltages for operation, I would use a transformer based dc-dc circuitry, that surely must be capable of handling the startup-current of the bulb.
And at this point I lack some theory and exact datasheets about the voltage/current needed for these high-power bulbs over the whole operation cycle of startup, stabilized run, dimming, ....
Does anyone know here some reliable data, that I would be need to design a dc-dc customized ballast?
Greets,
Holzleim
