Help me replace my surefire e2 with something better?

[slowhand23]

I recently picked up a Quark Tactical 123-2 & the 18650 body and really like it! Keep in mind the 17650 cell has better run time vs the RCR123s. The 18650 cell extends runtime further (2.5 + hrs. on MAX) but requires the Quark 18650 body.

Regarding primaries, the Battery Station Panasonic 123's deal of 50 for $60 shipped is tough to beat!

 

[ampdude]

The Surefire E2e is still the best thing going in the size class IMO, the other stuff I saw mentioned in this thread is not too interesting and has different drawbacks.

There are two things I would do if I were you. Since you want it to continue to be a tactical light, I would go with the Lumens Factory IMR-E2 lamp assembly and two of AW's IMR16340 cells and a WF-139 charger which can also be purchased from AW.

The other thing I would consider, is purchasing the Malkoff M60W (warm tint) and then purchase a Valiant Concepts VME head (unfortunately not in stock right now) to make it fit on your E2e. The Malkoff with VME head will be slightly larger than your stock E2e head, it will be sized for 26mm drop-ins instead of the standard 19mm E-series sized reflector head, so the VME head will be larger than stock, sort of like a 6P head on an E-series body.

One thing I should add, if this is an actual E2 light and not the E2e, it will have a lexan lens instead of the E2e's glass lens, and therefore should not be used with the xenon-halogen IMR lamp which produces incredible incan light, but a lot of heat. The older E2 had the pocket clip attached to the head, while the E2e has the pocket clip attached to the body. There are a few exceptions, but I doubt you have one of those rare transition lights.

 

[pjandyho]

There are two things I would do if I were you. Since you want it to continue to be a tactical light, I would go with the Lumens Factory IMR-E2 lamp assembly and two of AW's IMR16340 cells and a WF-139 charger which can also be purchased from AW.

Don't bother with this setup. Super problematic setup. Lumens Factory recommends the use of the now discontinued Lock-Out Tail Cap or LOTC for short. I have 2 LOTC which was damaged by the short circuit caused by the IMR bulb. The spring in both LOTC got burnt to the point of curling up like how a squid would behave in a pot of boiling oil. In both cases I had tried the light with the MN03 before changing it to the IMR bulb. And in both cases I had an instaflash of about a second or two before it goes out.

Checked the bulb after that, nothing seems to be wrong with the IMR bulb but what causes the short circuit to happen? Could it be due to a thicker filament which may have affected the draw?

 

[pjandyho]

And what can I do about the two very precious LOTC which was damaged by the IMR bulb and AW's IMR batteries? I am very certain nothing is wrong with the batteries and the E2e. I am almost 100% certain the problem lies with the bulb. So could Lumens Factory replace me the LOTC even though they had to replace the bulb? Is it worth trying this setup?

 

[ampdude]

What is a LOTC? (lock out tailcap, right?) Are you referring to the later revision of the Z52 twisty? A bulb causing a short circuit melting two different tailcap springs but the bulb and batteries remaining intact after the first event? Nothing makes sense in your post man. Got any pictures of the bulb? That's a new one on me.

 

[DM51]

Runsalone... you have had 2 threads going on this topic, which is a violation of Rule 9. It is unnecessary, and it just causes duplication and confusion all round.

I'm merging the 2 threads.

 

[Runsalone]

Runsalone... you have had 2 threads going on this topic, which is a violation of Rule 9. It is unnecessary, and it just causes duplication and confusion all round.

I'm merging the 2 threads.

Oh no! terribly sorry on that! I need to go read the rules so I can not be a doosh.:sick2: I wasnt sure which was the best place to post it so I ran a double thread. Wont happen again DM!

 

[pjandyho]

What is a LOTC? (lock out tailcap, right?) Are you referring to the later revision of the Z52 twisty? A bulb causing a short circuit melting two different tailcap springs but the bulb and batteries remaining intact after the first event? Nothing makes sense in your post man. Got any pictures of the bulb? That's a new one on me.

I couldn't quite recall the model number of the LOTC but it is commonly referred to as either LOTC or twisty tail cap before it was discontinued by Surefire in favor of the clickie. Lock-Out tail cap is a name coined by Surefire by the way. So as according to Lumens Factory, it is advisable to use the twisty or LOTC when running the IMR configuration as clickie switches are unable to take the high current surge and would result in a damaged tail cap if used for too long. Do a search on this and you would see a few users having the same problem of springs in tail cap curling up or being burnt black.

Yes you read correctly, there is definitely a short circuit but it did not damage the bulb. Rather it damaged my tail cap to beyond operation because the spring in the tail cap got burnt and sort of curled inwards, so much so that my batteries rattles inside on an up down motion even when the tail cap is fully tightened.

 

[pjandyho]

Oh yes, Lumens Factory told me to return the bulb so they could do a check on it. I sort of let it go because I thought it is such a hassle to send the bulb back. Moreover, they did not give me an exact answer as to whether they could do something about my damaged tail cap. What is the point of them sending me a new bulb when I could not acquire another twisty unless they also sort out the problems on my tail cap? So, for all the hassle and damage that was done, is it worth it for me to go this route to improve the E2e's brightness? I don't think so. Now that I have an LX2, an E1B, and a Quark running neutral white LED, I see no point in using the E2e since it is dated in terms of output and also efficiency in consumption of batteries and have thus left the E2e in the box, untouched, and still with the damaged tail caps.

 

[ampdude]

I have to disagree, if you're after efficiency and performance, the Malkoff mod will far outperform an LX2 or E1B. As far as the term LOTC, not all twisties will lock out, so LOTC does not universally mean a twisty. The early E-series twisties were not LOTC's neither were the early G2 tailcaps, among others. The current Z57 clicky switch for example is a LOTC. And later Z52 twisties were of the LOTC variety. I'm sorry you had some problems with your E2e, it's hard to know what the problem is without seeing it though. I've personally never heard of a short in an E2.

 

[pjandyho]

I have to disagree, if you're after efficiency and performance, the Malkoff mod will far outperform an LX2 or E1B. As far as the term LOTC, not all twisties will lock out, so LOTC does not universally mean a twisty. The early E-series twisties were not LOTC's neither were the early G2 tailcaps, among others. The current Z57 clicky switch for example is a LOTC. And later Z52 twisties were of the LOTC variety. I'm sorry you had some problems with your E2e, it's hard to know what the problem is without seeing it though. I've personally never heard of a short in an E2.

I don't know about the Malkoff but I last heard that Malkoff drop-in does not have two stage or multiple stage power settings. That alone is a big turn off for me. My passing criteria for any LED setup now is at least a duo output configuration. Maybe there is one from Malkoff which I have not heard of but please point me there.

I don't know where this discussion is heading to but the E2e tail caps are indeed lock-out tail cap. I am talking about running the IMR setup in MY E2e. Maybe you are referring to E2 but I have not owned them before and can't comment on the E2. As for the G2, I know that the early series are not LOTC. I have them and owned them. So I am not too sure who is confused here but just for your info, I have 21 pieces of Surefire incandescent lights from the E1e to the M6. Other than the older G2 and the newer clickie switch on my black E2e, all my Surefire incandescent lights comes with lock-out tail caps. Twist to lock-out. We on the same wavelength here?

Anyway, our discussion here has got to do with the E2e running IMR bulbs and IMR batteries configuration using the lock-out tail cap as advised by Lumens Factory. I am not talking about any other lights other than the E2e so please, with all due respect, stop confusing everyone here by placing G2 into the picture.

This would be the end of this topic with respect to the thread starter. We are going into the off-topic zone. My apologies to everyone.

 

[Runsalone]

This would be the end of this topic with respect to the thread starter. We are going into the off-topic zone. My apologies to everyone.

Yes thank you for that. I dont know anything about putting different parts of lights together anyway and really have no intrest in it. i have to deal with whats on the market and which heads bodies might go with which but that is the extent of it unfortunately. Thanks to you both for contributing however and no offense taken whatsoever!

 

[ampdude]

I don't know about the Malkoff but I last heard that Malkoff drop-in does not have two stage or multiple stage power settings. That alone is a big turn off for me. My passing criteria for any LED setup now is at least a duo output configuration. Maybe there is one from Malkoff which I have not heard of but please point me there.

I don't know where this discussion is heading to but the E2e tail caps are indeed lock-out tail cap. I am talking about running the IMR setup in MY E2e. Maybe you are referring to E2 but I have not owned them before and can't comment on the E2. As for the G2, I know that the early series are not LOTC. I have them and owned them. So I am not too sure who is confused here but just for your info, I have 21 pieces of Surefire incandescent lights from the E1e to the M6. Other than the older G2 and the newer clickie switch on my black E2e, all my Surefire incandescent lights comes with lock-out tail caps. Twist to lock-out. We on the same wavelength here?

Anyway, our discussion here has got to do with the E2e running IMR bulbs and IMR batteries configuration using the lock-out tail cap as advised by Lumens Factory. I am not talking about any other lights other than the E2e so please, with all due respect, stop confusing everyone here by placing G2 into the picture.

This would be the end of this topic with respect to the thread starter. We are going into the off-topic zone. My apologies to everyone.

The confusion lies in that you are still mixing up the term LOTC with twisty. It is not mutually exclusive. There are SF twisties that do not lock out and SF twisties that do. A lot of the original E2 twisties did NOT lock out. They were shorter than the lock out version. Same with the G2. The current version of the G2 tailcap is lock out capable, while the earlier ones came with a shorter tailcap that did not. I hope this is not too confusing anymore, I don't see how it possibly can be. The term LOTC has NOTHING to do with whether the switch is a clicky or twisty. The Z62 clicky that you refer to on your Black E2e actually is a LOTC.

Lumens Factory advises twisties be used with certain of their higher power lamp offerings, because certain clickies cannot handle the high current. It has nothing to do with them being "LOTC".

 

[Runsalone]

The confusion lies in that you are still mixing up the term LOTC with twisty. It is not mutually exclusive. There are SF twisties that do not lock out and SF twisties that do. A lot of the original E2 twisties did NOT lock out. They were shorter than the lock out version. Same with the G2. The current version of the G2 tailcap is lock out capable, while the earlier ones came with a shorter tailcap that did not. I hope this is not too confusing anymore, I don't see how it possibly can be. The term LOTC has NOTHING to do with whether the switch is a clicky or twisty. The Z62 clicky that you refer to on your Black E2e actually is a LOTC.

Lumens Factory advises twisties be used with certain of their higher power lamp offerings, because certain clickies cannot handle the high current. It has nothing to do with them being "LOTC".

Dude.

 

[Runsalone]

So.....I got my quark today. The first mode that came on when I turned it on was strobe.......I turned it on in my pitch black bathroom.....damm near made me barf That is an INTENSE strobe!!

I didnt think i was gonna be super impressed with the brightness cause I have a few decent lights, around this size, but I was wrong. Cant wait for nightfall:huh:

 

[pjandyho]

Did you get the cool white version or the neutral white version with the warm tint?

 

[Runsalone]

I got the regular version. Cool white. Im not to hung up on tint and this one is a very nice white with a beautiful clean beam. What are the benefits of a neutral tint? What with me being on a sudden spending spree and all

 

[pjandyho]

A neutral white tint replicates the color of incandescent. Though it is slightly dimmer, only slightly, but it does bring out all the details in the woods, especially outdoors. Cool white LED just makes everything look flat no matter how powerful it may be. But honestly, if used in urban areas I couldn't care less if it is cool white or neutral white.

I say "Enjoy your Quark!" and congratulations on a fine purchase.

 

[Outdoors Fanatic]

Just get an E2DL and don't waste more time...

 

[Runsalone]

A neutral white tint replicates the color of incandescent. Though it is slightly dimmer, only slightly, but it does bring out all the details in the woods, especially outdoors. Cool white LED just makes everything look flat no matter how powerful it may be. But honestly, if used in urban areas I couldn't care less if it is cool white or neutral white.

I say "Enjoy your Quark!" and congratulations on a fine purchase.

Thanks PJ! Ill have to keep that in mind about lights that might go to the woods with me. I do a bit of backpacking and the led's in my petzel do make everything look a little alien. Cool tip! I got the cool white because I feel its harder on the eyes, which is one of this lights primary jobs. To light up suspisciousness Now....one of those little quark minis in AA neutral doesnt sound like such a bad idea......