Streamlight new Protac HL4 and Super Siege

ven

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Oops. Tried to attach photos. Not working. Sorry.

Use photobucket or an alike online photo album, upload pics to it and then copy the IMG code which is pasted here. Then preview/post it...........there are phone apps too , which make it even easier.
 

Zmago Javornik

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Apr 29, 2016
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would someone make/add Protac HL4 performance curve? Curve to curve comparison looks like after initial 7 min. or so Protac HL3 practically becom Protac HL and I hope that Protac HL4 is all different story
 
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rishabharies

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I think i read somewhere on the Streamlight website that one has to use protected 18650 with button top for protac hl4, can a non protected cause issues?
 

Gus Tomer

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Low 60 Lumen run time update.


I previously posted run time results for high and medium power settings.
I got around to testing the low setting.


Manufacture Claim with Streamlight brand 18650's 2600 mAh


High 2200 Lumens 1hr45min
Med 600 Lumens 4hr15min
Low 60 Lumens 43hr


With Olight 18650's 3400 mAh.


High 2200 Lumens 2hr20min
Med 600 Lumens 5hr30min
Low 60 Lumens 57hr30min


At 57hrs30min the HL4 shut off.
On low setting the the Hl4 appeared to have the same brightness from start to finish.
I checked the batteries after the HL4 shut off and one of the cells had "tripped" in to protection and no voltage could be read.
I tested the other cell with a 200mA load and it read 2.954V and falling.


I mentioned before the Maglite Safety/Traffic Wand works well as a diffuser.
I attached a paper clip to the top of the diffuser and have been using the HL4 as a hanging lantern.
Maybe the HL4 is better as a lantern than a hand held flashlight.
This HL4 is starting to grow on me.
But, I still don't like the tail cap switch or its programs.
I just wish it had a tradition button like a maglite or stinger.
Sorry no pics, I still haven't figured how to post them.
 

Zmago Javornik

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Apr 29, 2016
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Finally ... performance curve for ProtacHL4 at http://www.led-resource.com/2016/06/streamlight-protac-hl-4-review/ and as I expected output of ProtacHL4 on high in firs 7 min. or so drops to 50% so ProtacHL4 becomes very good 1100 lm FL (like 1100 lm ProtacHL3 becomes very good 600 lm and 850 lm ProtacHLUSB becomes very good 500 lm)

... now only one more question remain unanswered: is this initial 50% output drop on max. just consequence of battery impoverishment or result of electronic mechanism that protects overheating? If this 2nd is the case, than theoreticaly initial boost of 2200 lm could be repeated, if FL is turned off and cooled down (after all, after initial drop to 50% of output the battery still have enough power to run on 50% (1100 lm) for 1,5 hour)
 
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fivemega

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Jan 28, 2003
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[size=+2]Surefire P3X

Streamlight Protac HL4 [/size]

Does anyone have both?
Which one do you like better and why?
Any picture of beam comparison on HI?
 

leon2245

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Apr 4, 2008
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Lmao f.m.'s gone neon.

someone address his concern, please. I mean, I want to know too. Because Idk if font even gets any bigger.

discuss you trolls!
 

nitebrite

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Jan 3, 2004
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I just got this, for a reason. I like it better than the UDR! Yes, the UDR is much better built, more functional, much brighter. The reason I prefer the HL4 is because it is much smaller, weighs much less and has a rubber grip. The truth is unless you are doing Military operations or a Flashaholic you do not quite need the output of the UDR. Plus $99 Vs. $1,370. Obviously the UDR is much nicer but for these reasons I actually prefer this. No way 2,200LU though which is okay. Figure 12x123 Vs. 4x123. It is not really possible but it is plenty bright. I know this is an old thread but I figured I would provide my thoughts on it. My example is fine for Chinese. Maybe the other guy just got a dud. Threads and everything else are good. The dual battery thing is sort of a trash bag it seems but it actually works. I mean it is like just cellophane that expands. Still innovative at making it much smaller and much nicer than the Rayovac Beast. I just wish you could charge inside it. It is certainly fine for $99 though.
 

nitebrite

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I was wondering if it would be of benefit to remove the opaque coating on the lens? I read it comes off very easily with automotive rubbing compound. Someone did it and said it was considerably brighter. I wanted to check with you guys before I go ruin it.
 

nitebrite

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Isn't that the reflector you picture? I mean removing the opaque coating from the front lens at the bezel. Some people say that made it much brighter which would make sense. However, StreamLight must have made it that way for a reason? Of course not all companies ideas render the best results. I am talking about the whitish coating on the inside of the flat glass lens at the very front of the bezel, not the reflector. unless that is in fact what I am talking about that you showed and I just do not know what it looks like disassembled. It looks to me like you have the reflector there and not the lens. I just want to make sure taking off the coating is a good idea before I go wreck it. Thanks
 

bykfixer

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This....


Breaks down like this...

It's meant to be very diffused. All 2200 aimed at nearby objects with zero flashback.


All 2200 lumens at 3' from a shiney white truck.


But can light a city block.
 
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nitebrite

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I had no idea the lens was clear. It looks white but that is actually the "reflector of sorts" I am seeing I suppose. I most certainly do not want to wipe the coating off of that. It looks deceiving. I was like why the heck is the lens painted white? Now I get it. The guy on Amazon that wiped off the reflectors coating and said it was brighter I think made a big mistake. That is an anti reflective coating on the reflector which I suppose is good. It is strange the lens looks white from it and you cannot see the emitter. It looks strange but You just made me realize I am not seeing what I think I am. Thank you!

It is not as bright as the UDR but given it's size it is plenty bright. The size is at least manageable to me. I wish it had a charging jack onboard. Otherwise my example is great. Threads silky smooth, everything good. It does not step down in the amount of time I would use it if at all. The thing with all this Chinese stuff is not the design(which is done in the US) it is the QC. Lucky I got a god one. The guy that hated it obviously got a bad sampling. It is well worth $99 and much nicer than the Rayovac beast. I wish it was hard anodized but I am not going to beat on it anyways. In fact I will not even use it much. I normally don't need more than 200LU and at the most 600LU. As you pictured this will light up the block. The 4x xhp70,4x 18650 that step down to 1800LU in 30 seconds to 2 minutes are stupid to me. Even when a 10k+LU light is prime time I doubt I would buy it. I have no ned for it. I do imagine there are professionals that could certainly make use of such a light. Right now 2k+LU lights that do not step down fast are the best game in town if one needs that. Search and rescue Etc. may need more but for a few seconds wil not cut it. I highly recommend this so long as you get a good one. I am sure there are many duds of it though.

I appreciate that you steered me right before I screwed up my good light!

I just had one more question please. Streamlight 18650's are protected. Everyone seems to be using unprotected cells in this. Is that okay? I was not sure they would even make contact because protected cells are longer. I just needed to know what to get. I have plenty of unprotected cells but no protected. I also imagine the cells need to be "married"?

Edit: Never mind. I see it is protected cells.

Thanks
 
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bykfixer

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I bought it for the 600 lumen medium.

Immediately ten tap'd it to start on low (60 lumens), with a medium setting.

I suppose you could use unprotected cells, but why I don't know. I mean, unless you frequently check voltage it would make sense to have batteries that kick out before reaching below a point that may ruin them (as in will not recharge proper). May hurt the light as well.

I don't use mine a lot. Frankly it aint often I use a light that bright. But it has been a flawless light and mine was one of the first batch. But then again I've never had any issues with Streamlight products. Well a couple of their lights lock out with the slightest loosen of the tail cap. But pipe tape solved that in my case.

I do not know if removing that frost is possible. I liked how diffused it is so never even considered it.
 
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nitebrite

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Yeah, I do not wish to remove the frost. I mistakenly thought that was on the lens. Not the reflector. Using unprotected is a bad idea. I just was not sure which it took. That's all. I am absolutely using protected. 3500MAH are expensive though but want the runtime. The UDR is actually much brighter! I like the HL4 due to the size though. I hardly use these either. I am just a collector of flashlights! ERR, a Flashaholic.

Thank you for the help.
 

bykfixer

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Yeah, I do not wish to remove the frost. I mistakenly thought that was on the lens. Not the reflector. Using unprotected is a bad idea. I just was not sure which it took. That's all. I am absolutely using protected. 3500MAH are expensive though but want the runtime. The UDR is actually much brighter! I like the HL4 due to the size though. I hardly use these either. I am just a collector of flashlights! ERR, a Flashaholic.

Thank you for the help.

You made my day bro.
 
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