Surefire Titan T1A Pics & Info

[tsl]

Yes.

Bill

Bill, is the "yes" to it's a characteristic common to all stock T1A's or "yes" to returning it to SF for replacement? My thought is the former (i.e., it's a characteristic common to all stock T1A's), but I thought I'd ask.

 

[Bullzeyebill]

Bill, is the "yes" to it's a characteristic common to all stock T1A's or "yes" to returning it to SF for replacement? My thought is the former (i.e., it's a characteristic common to all stock T1A's), but I thought I'd ask.

It is a characteristic common to stock T1A's. Some people live with it as it is not a problem at distance, and some people end of having their's modded with a more neutral, or Hi CRI Seoul P4, or another type of LED, and all have the focus adjusted for a "no donut beam". I had mine modded with a nice neutral P4, and the focus adjusted. Cost some for the mod, but worth it to me, in the long run.

Bill

 

[tsl]

Does anyone know the mA draw by the emitter on high?

 

[Kestrel]

Does anyone know the mA draw by the emitter on high?

and on 'low' as well?
Edit: I'd be interested in current at the emitter or at the tailcap.

 

[Bullzeyebill]

I got 750mA's at the tailcap with a SF CR123 on high, and 590mA's with an RCR123 charged to 4.10. Looks like a buck circuit. That was an original T1A unmodded.

Bill

Correction, probably buck/boost.

 

[tsl]

I bought a second T1A. I have noticed some residual sticky stuff on the outside of the lens. I had what was probably the same thing on the body in a couple places, but some lighter fluid took care of that easily. This stuff may be due to the foam packaging that the light was in.

The SF website says that the lens is coated. Does anyone know if it is coated on the outside, inside, or both? I am hesitant to do anyting to the lens if it is coated on the outside. I'll be emailing SF, but I thought it appropriate to ask here.

 

[Kestrel]

I got 750mA's at the tailcap with a SF CR123 on high, and 590mA's with an RCR123 charged to 4.10. Looks like a buck circuit. That was an original T1A unmodded.
Correction, probably buck/boost.

I agree that your data suggests a buck/boost driver, but why wouldn't SF just use a simpler boost driver for this light?

The first reason that I can think of: ensuring RCR123 compatibility with the electronics (which however is generally a low priority with SF).

But the only other reason that I can think of is a bit more 'out there'. What if SF ever wanted to make a 2xCR123 T1A? Call it a T2A maybe? :huh:

 

[scout24]

Kestrel- I like the way you think... I've banged the drum for a 0-200 lumen version since I held one for the first time... 2x123 would seem more than able to accomplish that, or at the very least double the current runtime and allow a redesign for tailstanding since you are no longer in the keychain realm. I'm only a little excited by the possibilities here...

 

[Bullzeyebill]

I suggest that going buck/boost was a good idea. Paul Kim would know that a whole bunch of CPF'ers would be putting RCR's in the T1A. Sort of a hedge against potential repairs.

As far as a long T1A (T2A), it certainly would not good around my neck.

LOL.

Bill

 

[tsl]

I bought a second T1A. I have noticed some residual sticky stuff on the outside of the lens. I had what was probably the same thing on the body in a couple places, but some lighter fluid took care of that easily. This stuff may be due to the foam packaging that the light was in.

The SF website says that the lens is coated. Does anyone know if it is coated on the outside, inside, or both? I am hesitant to do anyting to the lens if it is coated on the outside. I'll be emailing SF, but I thought it appropriate to ask here.

I talked with SF Product Support. They said that the lens is coated on both sides with an anti-reflective coating. They suggested a dry Q-tip and if that did not work then to use a Q-tip lightly dipped in a water/mild dishwashing liquid solution. The water/dishwashing liquid solution worked, and the lens is now clear of any residue.

 

[V8TOYTRUCK]

Is the Titan going to be updated anytime soon?

 

[pjandyho]

I doubt so. Don't think the Titan has garnered in enough sales to warrant an upgrade. In what ways are you expecting the upgrade to come in? If it is a change of emitter, maybe some CPFers can help you modify it at a cost?

 

[tobrien]

what an awesome review/OP!

 

[V8TOYTRUCK]

Yup..emitter upgrade. I rather not have a CPFer do the upgrade though, I don't want to end up with a $300+ Titan that can't be warrantied. Sucks since I really like the UI.

 

[leon2245]

Supporting the T2A idea, as well as a T1AA.

 

[Kestrel]

Supporting the T2A idea, as well as a T1AA.

A T2A would be great if it got a clicky tailcap, sort of like a mini-U2. I'd buy one.
As long as we're dreaming, one T1AAA please.

 

[DM51]

Supporting the T2A idea, as well as a T1AA.

I'd like to see a TCR2A

 

[Kestrel]

I'd like to see a TCR2A

I'm in for a TLR44A :devil:

 

[vikingz2000]

Great post, and thanks to all for a lot of great input (and the original review, of course).

I've wanted one of these for a long time. Current I have a one purchased at 'county com' and it's called a 'Maratac - AAA'. I have one in stainless and one made of pure copper (my favorite). They have three modes of light out-put and appear to be very well made AND very affordable, and so compact for EDC.

But what I want in a low intensity light to read by. I often sit in my vehicle at night and like to read with a 'book light' but even those are too bright (as is the Maratac as well).

I want to know if at a very low out-put, the light on the T1A is even (no rings or bright spots, etc), i.e., a true flood a low levels. And how 'warm' is the light, really?

Thanks a lot!

 

[Brasso]

The T1A has very cool tint. I call it blue. I think this is the primary reason it hasn't sold well. Who want so spend that much on a light who's beam looks like a blue tinted 5mm led? That and it can't tail stand.