The Malkoff Front Porch

[knucklegary]

I like it.. who bought all the neutrals!?

 

[ilikeguns40]

2xAA seems more intriguing now that his new MDC li-ion heads go to 9v. Two 3.7v 14500s

 

[etc]

/

I have the same complaint with Malkoff tailcaps - I really wish Gene would make a semi-shrouded version of his standard tailcap.

The shrouded versions are a safety thing, you don't want one of these turn on in your pocket and drain to zero when you most need it.

 

[aznsx]

You all get the email?

Yeah. Looks like some derating of SHO output level(s) v input voltage. Guess @timbo114 picked up on that yesterday, but I hadn't checked it out yet. Mine still looks the same (EDIT: meaning pretty darn good), but it's good that they want to get it right in the documentation. I respect that.

 

[aznsx]

I like it.. who bought all the neutrals!?

I figured it was you Guess not...or maybe you're just trying to throw us off your trail!

 

[msr0407]

Hi everyone, unrelated to the current topics but I am wondering if anyone can help with this issue. For some reason I can't get the VME head to work with the Lumens Factory bodies. The MDC heads work fine. Any ideas? Here are pics of the parts if it helps. Thanks!

 

[scalpel_ninja]

If the body tube does not fully bottom out in some heads, the negative might not have a path to make it to the head. If the threads on the body and/or head are anodized, thread contact alone won't provide the pathway for the negative. Usually a tube with anodized threads and a bare surface right at the end will need to contact a bare surface inside the head for the circuit to complete.

IIRC, the inside of the VME heads are anodized, so the negative must contact the brass ring around the positive spring. It's possible the spacing isn't correct to allow for contact.

 

[ilikeguns40]

You may need a thin copper wave washer to make contact. Usually Gene sends one with the VME head and drop ins. Ask him about it, he'll probably send you a couple

 

[NH Lumens]

Try removing the O-ring and see if that makes any difference.

The MDC heads complete the circuit through the threads so they work reliably on LF bodies.

 

[msr0407]

Will try these. Thank you guys!

 

[QMT93]

Hi y'all,
Can I use the MDC TAC CR123 with AA or AAA in the 1CR123 body, similarly to the Streamlight 1L-1AA?

 

[scalpel_ninja]

Hi y'all,
Can I use the MDC TAC CR123 with AA or AAA in the 1CR123 body, similarly to the Streamlight 1L-1AA?

I don't believe a AA or AAA will fit in the CR123 body. The length of a CR123 is around 34mm. The AA is around 50mm and AAA is about 44mm. So the body is too short.

 

[QMT93]

I don't believe a AA or AAA will fit in the CR123 body. The length of a CR123 is around 34mm. The AA is around 50mm and AAA is about 44mm. So the body is too short.

That's the trick up the sleeve of the Streamlight 1L-1AA. It can run a AA, a AAA, or a CR123, which makes me wonder if the MDC 1CR123 can do the same.

 

[kerneldrop]

That's the trick up the sleeve of the Streamlight 1L-1AA. It can run a AA, a AAA, or a CR123, which makes me wonder if the MDC 1CR123 can do the same.

As long as you can complete the circuit then you can get anything to work…stack enough washers and wrap with duct tape and you'll be full-sending lumens in no time

 

[ilikeguns40]

A CR123 won't fit in the AA body. Your MDC TAC will run on the AA body, but won't be full power. I don't have any 14500s, but I would imagine that would get full power with the TAC on an AA body.

3.7v li-ion 14500 will more than likely fry the TAC head considering max voltage is 3.2v

You would need this battery in the AA body to run the TAC head

 

[Dicaeopolis]

3.7v li-ion 14500 will more than likely fry the TAC head considering max voltage is 3.2v

You would need this battery in the AA body to run the TAC head

That's right. Sorry. I knew there was a reason I quit trying that. I ended up putting an M31 on an AA body in a VME. I believe you can run a single 14500 with that. I think it is around 85 lumens or so on a single AA alkaline. The TAC will run on a AA NIMH, but won't get full power, but i did a time test on it before and it's not too bad.

 

[LEDphile]

I ended up putting an M31 on an AA body in a VME. I believe you can run a single 14500 with that.

Nope. The M31 uses a boost converter, which means that the battery voltage must be lower than the ~3.2V of the LED. So a 14500 will fry the LED in an M31, but a CR123, or one or 2 AA batteries (a single L91 or a pair of NiMH work well) are fine. But for a 14500 in that same host, you could use an M61 (which uses a stepdown converter).

 

[bigburly912]

I have an MD2 with tricap tail and the smaller head that everyone goes nuts over that I'm not doing anything at all with. (Currently have an old surefire drop in in it just because I have a ton of 123s that need used.) Any recommendations? My 4L from the group buy a few years gets all the love around here. It's a shame I have no use for the MD2.

 

[scalpel_ninja]

I have an MD2 with tricap tail and the smaller head that everyone goes nuts over that I'm not doing anything at all with. (Currently have an old surefire drop in in it just because I have a ton of 123s that need used.) Any recommendations? My 4L from the group buy a few years gets all the love around here. It's a shame I have no use for the MD2.

I'm relatively new to Malkoff and wasn't aware of a different smaller head. I'd love to see a photo of the light you're referring to.

But to answer your question, my most useful configuration of an MD2 was with an M61N and hi/lo ring. Also putting an M91T with two 18350s was a great compact high powered light.

 

[kerneldrop]

I have an MD2 with tricap tail and the smaller head that everyone goes nuts over that I'm not doing anything at all with.

Us extreme hard-users need the 17mm opening to protect the lens from strikes during our daily use.