Two Surefires that I don't know what to do with

Ulightme

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Looking at the photo again, does that G2 take a drop-in or does it have a unitized LED head?
It's a drop in.

Give me a sec and I'll get a pic of it up for you.
surefire4.jpg
 
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Stress_Test

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Isn't the one piece head slightly brighter.

I think it was, BUT, *edit* the version shown above gives full compatibility with P60 drop-ins so that's the version I'd want anyway.

Just to confirm, Ulightme, that G2 head is metal, right? Not the nitrolon plastic? Reason I ask, the higher-powered drop-ins need a metal head for heat-sinking ability, otherwise the LED cooks.

Sweet lights by the way. I'd keep 'em regardless what path you take.
 

Ulightme

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I think it was, BUT, *edit* the version shown above gives full compatibility with P60 drop-ins so that's the version I'd want anyway.

Just to confirm, Ulightme, that G2 head is metal, right? Not the nitrolon plastic? Reason I ask, the higher-powered drop-ins need a metal head for heat-sinking ability, otherwise the LED cooks.

Sweet lights by the way. I'd keep 'em regardless what path you take.
Thanks. Despite the magnet not sticking to it, judging by the very nice threads cut into it, and the presence of the original thread lube after all these years, I'm thinking metal. So probably Al.
 

Stress_Test

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Yeah, I assumed it was metal just due to the shape alone (hexagon "bolt" style), but I'm far from an expert.

The metal heads were aluminum, so non-magnetic. Also an easy way to tell the difference is pick up the light with a bare hand on a cold day when it's been sitting a while. The Nitrolon won't feel too bad; aluminum will be like picking up an ice cube :)

An older, all-Nitrolon G2 is what I keep on my belt for more, em, "serious" uses, since it's so lightweight, draws quickly, and won't freeze to my hand in cold weather.
 

turbodog

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I'd be inclined to upgrade the G2 and sell the E1L to buy an E1BMV or whatever the current one is, unless you're attached to the old style. You'd probably break even, or make a profit if you got a used E1B. E1L's worth well over $100 while the G2 is under $50 as far as I know.

Exactly. I have an original L4 that's worth, used, about $150 on ebay. I might just sell the whole thing and replace the entire light rather than re-head it.
 

turbodog

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Thanks. Despite the magnet not sticking to it, judging by the very nice threads cut into it, and the presence of the original thread lube after all these years, I'm thinking metal. So probably Al.

The early models had metal heads. Current leds are efficient enough that they now are doing fine w/ polymer heads.
 

michaex

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@Ulightme, my two cents...

You have a G2 LED. Sell the P60L module on the bay for $40 and get Malkoff's drop'in for $50. Perfect car light.

E1L is worth about $150 on bay. I wouldn't replace it with E1B MV. Your current light gives you 80 lumens for 3 hours. MV will give you more for... less than an hour or so if I recall correctly. New head is a good option - I'd keep the original one though as low power options are not so common any more. And yours is a dual output one.

It's a good set! Enjoy the road! :)
 

Ulightme

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@Ulightme, my two cents...

You have a G2 LED. Sell the P60L module on the bay for $40 and get Malkoff's drop'in for $50. Perfect car light.

E1L is worth about $150 on bay. I wouldn't replace it with E1B MV. Your current light gives you 80 lumens for 3 hours. MV will give you more for... less than an hour or so if I recall correctly. New head is a good option - I'd keep the original one though as low power options are not so common any more. And yours is a dual output one.

It's a good set! Enjoy the road! :)
Sounds like good advice and a good way to break things up.

The lens on the G2 feels plastic. Is there anything that could be improved there?
 

troutpool

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If you want an alternative head and different light source for the E1L, do look at Lumens Factory's selection on their website.
 
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michaex

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Sounds like good advice and a good way to break things up.

The lens on the G2 feels plastic. Is there anything that could be improved there?
If you have a plastic bezel ring holding the lens, you're all set as that's pyrex material. If not then it's lexan and high output led that will heat up may potentially do some harm. I have yet to see it with a led though - I did with incandescent bulb.
 

Ulightme

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If you have a plastic bezel ring holding the lens, you're all set as that's pyrex material. If not then it's lexan and high output led that will heat up may potentially do some harm. I have yet to see it with a led though - I did with incandescent bulb.
The ring holding the lens appears to be rubber. I didn't want to dig at it too much with tweezers, as it may start coming off in chunks rather than pop out the whole ring due to age.
 

Ulightme

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You guys need to post more like you're talking to a golden retriever. Otherwise, I may be only parsing half of what you're meaning.
 

Stress_Test

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This is gonna be a deep rabbit hole here!

And yeah guys, don't forget to explain your terminology and model numbers and stuff.

I hate it when I see stuff like "I just put a BFH upgrade into my UWOTM8 and it's better than the FFS y'all"

....and I'm face down on my desk lamenting the 50 brain cells that died when they read that sentence.
 
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