I've been watching this thread now for a while. I've got to say a few things.
I was a little shocked at the "low-tech" approach Henry took. However, in reviewing my U60GT and Novatac 120P, I can say that I don't see THAT much difference in 60lm vs 120lm. It wasn't Earth shattering for me. That said, I do like the 120lm, but the GT has superior tint.
Now, will 100lm (real) suffice? Yes!! Did I expect more. Certainly. Disappointed in max high lumens? Kind of. So, now I'm going to be a total hypocrite. I find that my HDS and Novatac probably spend most of their time set to somewhere along the lines of 0.3 - 1 lm, 15-25lm, and max (with the Novatac also having a strobe). So in reality the settings Henry chose are what I've found to be useful myself. I just would have liked high to be a little higher.
On to the twist. This was shocking! However, I have a few twisties (a P1 Fenix that died and was losing light output from the first time it stayed on longer than 20 minutes at a time), an Orb Raw & Wee, and a Pierce M10i. For EDC, I think I actually prefer the twisty. With good threads, they are simple to turn. Keep in mind too that none of the lights I have that are twisties have really good knurling like Henry's does, nor do they have the surface area on the part that one is most likely to turn...thus Henry's light has more torque (in a sense) that can be delivered with less effort.
Am I going to buy one...well, I'll wait and see. Not because of the light, but because I'm rebuilding a race engine right now and that's gotta take priority.
Overall, I think this will be a fine light, with high quality and a lot easier to use than a lot of non-twisty people would think.
I was a little shocked at the "low-tech" approach Henry took. However, in reviewing my U60GT and Novatac 120P, I can say that I don't see THAT much difference in 60lm vs 120lm. It wasn't Earth shattering for me. That said, I do like the 120lm, but the GT has superior tint.
Now, will 100lm (real) suffice? Yes!! Did I expect more. Certainly. Disappointed in max high lumens? Kind of. So, now I'm going to be a total hypocrite. I find that my HDS and Novatac probably spend most of their time set to somewhere along the lines of 0.3 - 1 lm, 15-25lm, and max (with the Novatac also having a strobe). So in reality the settings Henry chose are what I've found to be useful myself. I just would have liked high to be a little higher.
On to the twist. This was shocking! However, I have a few twisties (a P1 Fenix that died and was losing light output from the first time it stayed on longer than 20 minutes at a time), an Orb Raw & Wee, and a Pierce M10i. For EDC, I think I actually prefer the twisty. With good threads, they are simple to turn. Keep in mind too that none of the lights I have that are twisties have really good knurling like Henry's does, nor do they have the surface area on the part that one is most likely to turn...thus Henry's light has more torque (in a sense) that can be delivered with less effort.
Am I going to buy one...well, I'll wait and see. Not because of the light, but because I'm rebuilding a race engine right now and that's gotta take priority.
Overall, I think this will be a fine light, with high quality and a lot easier to use than a lot of non-twisty people would think.