SST-90 (Super Sonic Transmitter) Maglite Build *Up To 7.3A Now*

[Der Wichtel]

well, the simple ones will only work with AC. They are based on inuductance.

but there are clampmeters which will work with DC as well. I'm not sure but I think they have something like a hall sensor inside.
When I was in school we could measure steady magnetic fields with that.

 

[wquiles]

A Clampmeter is needed to get accurate readings.

+1. I stopped using even my high end Fluke 189/289 for current measurements. I now use a clamp meter instead. Mine has pretty good sensitivity down to the 10mA range, so it is more accurate than I need for measuring current in the Amps range. Here I am measuring output from a hipCC for my latest diving head project:

arent clamp meter only work in AC?

The majority of the clamp meters are in fact for AC measurement only, as that is the most typical use - you don't want to break a high ampere AC circuit (20-30-50Amps or more) to measure the current, so the clamp meter is really the "only" way to do it. However, specialized meters such as mine above can read both AC and DC current.


Note that to make accurate measurements with a DC clamp meter:
- put the meter in the range you want to measure
- turn OFF your circuit - very critical since you will be zeroing the meter!
- clamp the meter around the single wire you want to measure (make sure to use follow the arrow on the clamp so that you are measuring current in the right direction - for DC current it matters).
- don't move the meter - it must be completely still. Meaning you can't hold it by hand!
- you MUST zero a DC clamp meter (press the ZERO button), without disturbing the meter
- turn ON your circuit
- measure your DC current value


Will

 

[Aircraft800]

OK, maybe I wasn't so wrong

I just grabbed one off the shelf with the wrong range.

 

[wquiles]

By the way, credit to the little I know abut clamp meters goes to George from TaskLED - he is the one that got me started with DC clamp meters, and gave me advice as to what to buy, and how to use them accurately. I am just basically passing along his advice and knowledge, as it has served me well.

Will

 

[kz1000s1]

Will, have you done any comparisons between your clamp meter and regular meter to see how far off the readings are?

I agree that the clamp is a better way, but myself and many other members don't have $130 to spend on one. We just do the best we can with what we have. It may not be perfect, but it's a useful reference for myself and others with just a simple meter. Also, the majority of my testing is done on assembled lights with no exposed wires to clamp on.

 

[kz1000s1]

Now getting back to the subject of this thread:

Here is the requested beamshot. In the photo the difference between 4A and 7A isn't as obvious as it is in person. The camera is a Nikon D70 in manual mode with identical settings.

4A

7A

 

[darkzero]

+1. I stopped using even my high end Fluke 189/289 for current measurements. I now use a clamp meter instead. Mine has pretty good sensitivity down to the 10mA range, so it is more accurate than I need for measuring current in the Amps range. Here I am measuring output from a hipCC for my latest diving head project:

The majority of the clamp meters are in fact for AC measurement only, as that is the most typical use - you don't want to break a high ampere AC circuit (20-30-50Amps or more) to measure the current, so the clamp meter is really the "only" way to do it. However, specialized meters such as mine above can read both AC and DC current.


Note that to make accurate measurements with a DC clamp meter:
- put the meter in the range you want to measure
- turn OFF your circuit - very critical since you will be zeroing the meter!
- clamp the meter around the single wire you want to measure (make sure to use follow the arrow on the clamp so that you are measuring current in the right direction - for DC current it matters).
- don't move the meter - it must be completely still. Meaning you can't hold it by hand!
- you MUST zero a DC clamp meter (press the ZERO button), without disturbing the meter
- turn ON your circuit
- measure your DC current value


Will

Nice meter Will, I've got the same one. If anyone is looking to get a DC clamp meter for measuring lower currents this one is pretty much the best "affordable" one (although it's capable of 80A). When I was in the market to get one I searched all over & decided to go with this one. Many are not capable of reading less than .1A. The true RMS mini models from Extech that I were looking at cost over $300 (like the one McGizmo has) & I wasn't ready to spend that much on one. After loosing some auctions on ebay for some Tenma & Prova True RMS models (I think they were imitations of the Extech) I ended up purchasing this one new & I'm glad I did. It's been serving me well & compared to actual current readings with my 187 meter it's more than accurate enough.

Will has provided some good tips there. Zeroing the meter after clamping the wire & keeping the meter still is very important in getting consistent readings.

 

[lolzertank]

I use a 0.01ohm resistor, measure the voltage and multiply by 100. With an SST-90, you might get away with a 0.005ohm resistor.

 

[jchoo]

At 4A your beamshot is already overexposed, that's why the 7A shot doesn't look much different. Try closing the iris on your camera a couple of stops, see if that helps.

 

[kz1000s1]

I could do that, but I'm trying to capture what you see in person. Another thing I should try is using a test target that isn't white. I've been using the same one for reference, but at this level it just gets washed out.

 

[wquiles]

Will, have you done any comparisons between your clamp meter and regular meter to see how far off the readings are?

I agree that the clamp is a better way, but myself and many other members don't have $130 to spend on one. We just do the best we can with what we have. It may not be perfect, but it's a useful reference for myself and others with just a simple meter. Also, the majority of my testing is done on assembled lights with no exposed wires to clamp on.

No comparison data, sorry. I just stopped using the Fluke 189/289 and started using the clamp meter for current measurements. I test as I build, so I always have access to the exposed wires, but it does has limitations on a completed light, so like everything in live, it is just another compromise.

 

[wquiles]

Nice meter Will, I've got the same one. If anyone is looking to get a DC clamp meter for measuring lower currents this one is pretty much the best "affordable" one (although it's capable of 80A). When I was in the market to get one I searched all over & decided to go with this one. Many are not capable of reading less than .1A. The true RMS mini models from Extech that I were looking at cost over $300 (like the one McGizmo has) & I wasn't ready to spend that much on one. After loosing some auctions on ebay for some Tenma & Prova True RMS models (I think they were imitations of the Extech) I ended up purchasing this one new & I'm glad I did. It's been serving me well & compared to actual current readings with my 187 meter it's more than accurate enough.

Yup. For the money, it was the very best I could find. Funny we do the same research and came up with the same identical new meter

 

[Techjunkie]

Now getting back to the subject of this thread:

Here is the requested beamshot. In the photo the difference between 4A and 7A isn't as obvious as it is in person. The camera is a Nikon D70 in manual mode with identical settings.

[pic]

4A

[pic]

7A

I notice the difference. At 7A the frame around the shed door is entirely washed out and the spill is lighting up some vertical thing in the distance at the shed's 12 o'clock position..

http://www.fototime.com/pictinv/04F05FA0D8E5E0F
Although at these settings, maybe the difference would be more obvious if you aimed the hotspot at something farther away.

 

[Linger]

the difference would be more obvious if you aimed the hotspot at something farther away.

Definately.
Out door was helpful, approaching 9 amps you need bigger shooting range.
I've got a cottage on a hill over the lake, it's fantastic for revealing beam strength / patter. Two lights that appear the same inside become vastly different when directed along a darkened landscape.

 

[JamisonM]

kz1000s1, do you plan on trying one of fivemega's 2.5" or 3" reflectors with this things?

 

[Mike Painter]

now we are talking !!! let me be the first to say....

beamshots!!!!!!!!

-Dan

I think it's time to start talking about daylight or early evening beam shots.
Some of the most impressive P7 shots I've seen were taken in this manner.

 

[Mike Painter]

Re: SST-90 (Super Sonic Transmitter) Maglite Build

SST-90

SST-90 at 7A
The difference between this and 4A isn't really showing up here.

I'm looking at treh house behind the central area and it seems that is is well illuminated in the fisrt picture and completely so in the second.

I'm guessing you need a larger field or to try to take some pictures at dusk.

 

[PoliceScannerMan]

Re: SST-90 (Super Sonic Transmitter) Maglite Build *Beamshots*

I saw PSM's EllieII Quad P7 in action at the SHOT party and if it's anything like that...WOW!

That was fun wasnt it?

I just got my first SST-50 from Nailbender, thing kicks *** DD on a 26650 IMR.

I was actually wondering if my Ellie Quad P7 would kick more butt if it had SST-50 or SST-90's in it... :naughty:

 

[kz1000s1]

Re: SST-90 (Super Sonic Transmitter) Maglite Build *Beamshots*

It was! It's kinda too bad you can't set fire to newspapers with these lights. :naughty:

How does the SST-50 compare to a single P7? Do you know how many amps it's pulling?

It would if the batteries have enough juice to sustain them.

 

[PoliceScannerMan]

Re: SST-90 (Super Sonic Transmitter) Maglite Build *Beamshots*

It was! It's kinda too bad you can't set fire to newspapers with these lights. :naughty:

How does the SST-50 compare to a single P7? Do you know how many amps it's pulling?

It would if the batteries have enough juice to sustain them.

I have no idea, my brother has my DMM. :sigh:

I'll ask Mac next time I talk to him if it would be worth the trouble.