The fourth stage of flasholism - becoming a "tint head"?

[mbw_151]

Hi, my name is.... and I'm a tint connoisseur. A connoisseur knows what he wants, a snob knows what everybody wants. I've been thru the many stages:

Fire on a Stick (red/orange/yellow)
AA MiniMag incan (orange)
NiteIze 3 x 5mm LED for MiniMag (angry blue)
Surefire incan (Lumens, orange)
Fenix (Lumens, levels, white/blue)
HDS (Levels, high reliability, stark white)
Malkoff "warm" for Surefire (Lumens, high reliability, neutral)
HDS to Milky 4500K High CRI (Levels, High reliability, neutral)
Zebra "warm" (Levels, cost effective, neutral)
Quark "neutral" (Levels, cost effective, neutral)
Minimus Vision (Infinite level, high reliablity, neutral)
Banish all non-neutral, loop back to Malkoff and repeat

I blame Gene, his "warms" seduced me and now I'm in the loop..... for either (Lumens, reliability, and neutral) or (Levels, reliability, neutral). What a beautiful but expensive place, just like a vacation in Hawaii.

 

[GeoBruin]

I think that was my Logan you bought mrlysle. I think it's the High CRI XP-G you got. It's significantly brighter than the nichia (which I have in my eiger) and somewhat warmer. This tint is noticeably different than my other High CRI lights... it's on the yellow side rather than the pink side. For example, my Malkoff M61w (one of the newer warmer ones) has a "pink/peach" tint to it. That Logan does not have that pink to it. If I had to describe it, I would say it looks closer to an incandescent light than any other I've owned. I absolutely loved the tint myself (I think a surefire Incan has the best tint out there) but I just couldn't EDC the Logan in my slacks. The Eiger fits just right.

Let me know what you think about the tint when it arrives.

Gotta be honest with you krevo. The buyer didn't say, and I didn't ask! lol I'll let 'ya know when I get my paws on it though. I wanted for two basic reasons. It will be my first HiCRI, and because I have another Peak Logan QTC that I really like. So, it just seemed like one of those "gotta have it" lights! lol :devil:

 

[mrlysle]

I think that was my Logan you bought mrlysle. I think it's the High CRI XP-G you got. It's significantly brighter than the nichia (which I have in my eiger) and somewhat warmer. This tint is noticeably different than my other High CRI lights... it's on the yellow side rather than the pink side. For example, my Malkoff M61w (one of the newer warmer ones) has a "pink/peach" tint to it. That Logan does not have that pink to it. If I had to describe it, I would say it looks closer to an incandescent light than any other I've owned. I absolutely loved the tint myself (I think a surefire Incan has the best tint out there) but I just couldn't EDC the Logan in my slacks. The Eiger fits just right.

Let me know what you think about the tint when it arrives.

You got it buddy! Supposed to be here tommorow, but I'll be home on break. (sigh) I'll probably have a report when I get the light on Tuesday, after I get back to Gettysburg! :naughty:

 

[skyfire]

i was a tint snob too, but now im more of a CRI snob. i definitely notice a difference with color rendering when using the XM-L 3000k as opposed to a 90+ CRI XP-G. more contrast with the higher CRI.
the 3000k tint was a little shocking to me when i first turned it on. but i quickly warmed up to it, and now warm tints are my preference. im ok with neutrals too, but i still prefer the neutral bins of XR-Es and XP-Es.
for some reason all the neutral XP-Gs and XM-Ls look greenish to me. i wouldnt be surprised if i have trouble perceiving colors. :shrug:
lately, ive completely gone a different direction, and have been EDCing a red L1. and loving it.

 

[bbb74]

My stages kind of went from

lumens
more lumens
much more lumens
build quality and ui

with a bit of tint thrown in. I have a mix of neutral whites (quark AA2, Fenix LD25, Zebralight SC51w) and cool whites (Fenix LD20 R4 (horrid blue), TK41 (fine), quark AA2 turbo, Zebralight SC51 & H51) (holy crap do I really own all of those!).

My development of tint preferences has left me with
a) I hate green (Preon Revo SS XP-G S1 or whatever it is)
b) I hate blue less than I hate green (the LD20 R4 is blue)
c) I prefer cool white outside but neutral is ok
d) I prefer cool white when looking at things inside
e) I much prefer cool white (SC51/H51) for reading a book at night because the page looks white, whereas with neutral it just looks dirty yellow and pictures (if its a mag) look too warm
f) I much prefer neutral white for lighting up a room with ceiling bounce - much nicer than cool white

So I'm not religiously into any particular tint. If I could have any tint it would be a bit warmer than my cool whites but a lot cooler than my neutrals.

 

[griff]

This is from 2007 :http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ve-Stages-of-Flashlight-Collecting&highlight=

 

[someguy4747]

My name is Zack and I am a flashoholic:

1) Buy several Fenix lights for everyone that I thought would like a light. Trying each one out of course. I ended up ordering a PD31 with 18650's and a charger for myself as my first real light.
2) Then I bought a few twisty mini 47's and realized what a nice beam was and was not.
3) The next big leap was when I bought my first quark. I loved the moonlight mode and it had a perfect beam!
4) Bought a Quark Turbo X as a thrower. It was cool and bright but I realized I liked the smaller lights better.
5) Then 4sevens did a hi CRI run and I decided to see what all the fuss was about. Ordered a hi CRI quark 123. It was my new favorite. Loved the tint and color rendition. Also loved the form factor as I had previously stuck to 18650 and 14500.
6) Then my new my new favorite light developed a problem in the tail switch. I had to send it in. The glamour was slightly lost but at this point I had experience with 4seven's cs and had faith. It was when 4sevens shipped the light to my parents house(still my billing address) instead of my house and I asked my dad to bring the light to work as we work at the same hospital. He said if these lights are so good why do you have to send them in all the time?(I had mentioned to him before about my great cs experiences) I was kinda offended so it took a while but I thought about it and realized I had had several problems with my Fenix and 4sevens lights.
7) I began to look for better quality as well as an improved UI. I never liked the idea of having only 2 modes with the Quark tacticals. I also didn't like the clicking through the UI of the regular Quark but felt it was better of the two evils and seemed workable. Soon I had my sights on an HDS Rotary. The UI was perfect and the quality was as good as it gets. I was content.
8) One night I found an animal part in my house(ended up being a piece of a jaw and teeth from a small mammal) and thought it was from one of our pets. After confirming our pets were fine I had to inspect the animal part. I pulled out my HDS and realized immediately I needed a hi CRI light for the task. I had to get my Quark hi CRI. I then remembered how much I appreciated the hi CRI.
9) Now I edc a Preon 1 hi CRI as well as my HDS as I wait for HDS to resume production so I can order me my dream light, a hi CRI rotary.

This has occurred in about 16 months of time so I feel like I am slightly ahead of the curve when it comes to realizing that Quality, UI and tint are more important in than brightness the end.

Sorry about the long post.

 

[GeoBruin]

I'm the same way. I recently got an "M61NLL" from Oveready and the neutral looks green compared to the "w" drop ins. It will be going up on the marketplace soon in favor of a true warm.

i was a tint snob too, but now im more of a CRI snob. i definitely notice a difference with color rendering when using the XM-L 3000k as opposed to a 90+ CRI XP-G. more contrast with the higher CRI.
the 3000k tint was a little shocking to me when i first turned it on. but i quickly warmed up to it, and now warm tints are my preference. im ok with neutrals too, but i still prefer the neutral bins of XR-Es and XP-Es.
for some reason all the neutral XP-Gs and XM-Ls look greenish to me. i wouldnt be surprised if i have trouble perceiving colors. :shrug:
lately, ive completely gone a different direction, and have been EDCing a red L1. and loving it.

 

[mrlysle]

Hi Brian. Got the HCRI Logan today. Nice! I like it so far. Not dark here yet though, so I'll check it out better here in anotherhour or so. Thanks! BTW, sent you a PM over on the Markeplace.

 

[orbital]

+

Definitely, tint is first in my light decision.

similar thinking>>>>>> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?326636-Quality-over-Quantity&highlight=

//

 

[Flashlight Dave]

If the tint is stage 4,
then perhaps there is a stage 5 - CRI once you pass the tint stage?

After that, there'll still be the ultimate stage, the lux stage. Neither the tint nor the CRI will matter if there's not enough photons to see...
One day, maybe there'll be a flashlight that can lit up the dark-side of the moon, I wouldn't care about the Tint or CRI...

I don't know what stage I would be in but I would possibly consider a 6th. I would like a LED that would duplicate the noon day sun in both tint and color. I might be out of my mind and maybe some will say incan would do just that but there just seems to be a difference between incan and the sunlight that shines through our windows( ok so that would not be noon, maybe 4pm).I would love to have a light that I could place next to that beam from the window and have it perfectly match in tint and color. Perhaps one day.

 

[THE_dAY]

I don't know what stage I would be in but I would possibly consider a 6th. I would like a LED that would duplicate the noon day sun in both tint and color. I might be out of my mind and maybe some will say incan would do just that but there just seems to be a difference between incan and the sunlight that shines through our windows( ok so that would not be noon, maybe 4pm).I would love to have a light that I could place next to that beam from the window and have it perfectly match in tint and color. Perhaps one day.

I would recommend modding your current light with one of the Nichia NVSL219 H1 SW45 that will be available soon here.
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sh...2CRI-219-Emitters-(and-maybe-Malkoff-Dropins)

These Nichia's have as close to daylight color rendition as you can get.

 

[budynabuick]

...

Hey, Tarheel!!! I just walked in the door (4am) from a two week stay in your part of the woods. Black Mountain, Old Fort. I have people in Charlotte. Hated to leave. Sorry for the OT.:wave:

Keith

 

[nfetterly]

Tint Tint Tint - definately. Story I have told before - I was in a closed facility, no power, no outside light and that day was using a 6500K SST-50 (got it to try versus my 4500K). I was shocked - there was NO depth perception. I could not tell how far away anything was, which is kind of scary in an industrial site. My superintendant turned on his magcharger (incandescant) and depth perception appeared. I have not bought a cool LED since (nor will I). I'm generally a 4000K to 4500K fan (Neutralish), but also like HiCRI in some applications. I always carry a neutral 40DD spot and a HiCRI 40DD flood. Great combo.


Also just had 2 PDs upgraded to 4000K / 4500K XM-Ls, new life to a great body. I'm trying to avoid getting new lights, just upgrading older ones...

 

[GeoBruin]

I'm facing the ultimate tint snob dilemma at the moment. I want to preorder one of the new Varapower Turbo 2.0 lilghts from Lambda, but he's now offering them in 4000 and 4500K tints. How do you reconcile ordering one of the most powerful lights on the market knowing that you will loose 10 - 20% of the output by going with the warmer tint? I'm so distraught.

 

[GarageBoy]

I'll take cool blue (LOVE cool tints), neutral, warm, cyan tinted white (remember early Lux Vs?) and then puke green in that order

I want a HI CRI Cool White, though

My stages were:
Lumens
MORE lumens
MORE lumens in a 1 cell body (efficiency)
MORE lumens in a 1 cell body that wont go thermonuclear on me
MORE lumens in a 1 cell body that can handle heat, have long runtime, a low mode and with good build quality

 

[MichaelW]

Having CCT as your number 1 exclusionary factor saves you money.
I like 4000-4500K CCT, 4500-5000K is too cool, 3500-4000K is too warm. [those are acceptable to use, but not purchase]

 

[Ualnosaj]

I'll take cool blue (LOVE cool tints), neutral, warm, cyan tinted white (remember early Lux Vs?) and then puke green in that order

I want a HI CRI Cool White, though

My stages were:
Lumens
MORE lumens
MORE lumens in a 1 cell body (efficiency)
MORE lumens in a 1 cell body that wont go thermonuclear on me
MORE lumens in a 1 cell body that can handle heat, have long runtime, a low mode and with good build quality

That's pretty much the path I've taken as well... except I'm now at this point:
"MORE lumens in a 1 cell body that can handle heat, have long runtime, a low mode and with good build quality and is warmer (past neutral)"

Unfortunately this also put me into McGizmo territory... to which the Haiku is on the way

 

[tandem]

It seems there is a demand for a thread dedicated to identifying the various stages of flashaholism.

 

[mrlysle]

Ok. Posted earlier about having my first HCRI on the way. Picked up a Peak Logan from GeoBruin off the marketplace. All I can say is awesome. For those "on the fence" about HCRI, get one! Prior to this Logan, my closest thing was my ZL SC60w's. Love that tint. But HCRI is definitely different territory. Like many others have already said, very close to an incan. I really like it, and it won't be my last. Probably gonna add to my HDS collection with one of Henry's rotary's in HCRI! I think that will be an incredible light!